Saturday, April 19, 2014

What makes bourbon, a bourbon?

Well sir, one might prefer their manhattan with Southern Comfort or Jack Daniels, but they would not be ordering a bourbon drink.  Bourbon is a category unto itself which follows multiple guidelines for that 'bourbon' label to be imprinted on it's side.

Right away we are off to Kentucky, the home of 95% of bourbon whiskeys.  In fact the word bourbon and Kentucky are pretty synonymous, although any US State may produce a bourbon. (think of Champagne, France)

Bourbon is made primarily of corn (51% or more to be exact) and the rest might be some combination of rye, wheat, malt and barley although some bourbon might boast 100% corn usage.  Rye Whiskey indicates that 51% or more of the grain used is rye which gives whiskey a slightly sweeter and spicier flavor.  Then their are your Sour Mashes.  This is your Jack Daniels category.  Sour mash means recycled grains.  This is how Jack Daniels consistently tastes exactly the same.  They use the the same grains time and time again with some fresh grains to keep the old mash living. (think yeast in some ancient bread recipes)  Canadian whiskeys are another beast of it's own which includes your Canadian Club, Seagrams 7 and VO and Crown royals in the mix.  Canadians use identical processes to be bourbon but Federal law states that the term "bourbon" means manufactured within the United States.

Other federal regulations put on bourbon whiskey is that it can only be distilled at 160% alcohol (or 80 proof).  It will be bottled at 80 proof or more.  Water is the only ingredient to be added to the spirit in the distillation process, no additives.

"Straight bourbon" has slightly different rules.  These must be aged for 2-4 years and all use some sour mash in the product.  Sour mash is a way of regulating the yeast in a whiskey keeping the correct pH balance when new grains are introduced into the next fermentation.

Bourbon is barrel aged in first fill charred American oak barrels.  First fill means that the oak is used only once so you get the most flavor out of that barrel.  (The second fill of a barrel might be used for a beer, scotch or rum so some of that whiskey taste real read through into the second fill product.)  The first fill will give a whiskey it's reddish color,  while adding caramelized sugars and give it a slightly smokey, unique taste.

The creator of bourbon is unknown although some people may argue who did what first.  the name bourbon is still a relatively young term only having been on the lips of the human kind since the late 1800's.

Southern Comfort is actually a cordial.  It starts as a corn whiskey product and then adds sugar, fruits spices and many  other ingredients to it, to develop it's own distinct "smoother than straight whiskey" taste.

Whiskeys go back in American culture a long while and each one has a truly unique flavor despite mainly having the same ingredients.  Next time you go out, try a Makers Mark Bourbon neat and see how much the flavor opens up by adding a small amount of water.  Then try a Whistlepig 100% rye whiskey and do the same.  There is so much to love in each spirit, you may even opt for a third.

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

An ode to beer

Beer is my drink of choice from the hours of 11:30am to about 11pm.  I may like an Irish coffee before that and I tend to switch to hard liquor around eleven or twelve at night for good measure or general fullness.  Then of course the occasional; I just got out of work and have time for 2 drinks before you close, so I intend to make them count drinks.  But beer always catches my eye first on a menu or even better yet, a chalkboard.  IPA is my first go to, but I do love a slew of Belgian and Amber ales and porters and anything really that sounds intriguing enough to stand out.

The first beer I ever *fell in love with* was Brooklyn Brown ale.  I used to be a total beach bum on Long Island in the summers and if I was lucky enough to have that night off I would swing by Tricia's Cafe in Babylon Village right after.  This place gave you a basket of pickles immediately and always had Brooklyn Brown Ale, Brooklyn Pilsner and RC Cola on draft.  Needless to say, never had I ever tasted a better beer before.  Still to this day if I ever see it on draft anywhere I go, it is the first beer I start my night with.

Sunset Grille in Allston quickly became an inspiration to me.  I love seeing that huge ass list and picking a different beer every time the waitress came around. (and they normally have Brooklyn Brown on draft :D)  This place made it easy to begin my beer exploration.

IPA came into my world when I moved to Boston.  I had never heard of Harpoon IPA, but I found out pretty quickly I liked it.  Not to mention how much more alcohol it contained versus Guinness, light beer and coronas.  IPA is short for India Pale Ale.  Pale Ale refers to the pale malts used within an English beer and then India, talking about the trade business between England and India.  These beers are slightly higher in alcohol, have less residual sugar and contain way more hops than other beers.  Most IPA's on your local beer shelf are American IPA's.  This denotes the use of American hops that create a reddish colored beer with a citrusy or floral hop note.

It wasn't until working a Fenway Cantina did I feel the true uprising of Craft Breweries.

A craft brewery is an independently owned business that makes a limited quantity of it's beers.  A microbrewery and craft brewery is the same exact thing.  They tend to focus on developing a distinguishing taste and style.  Some brews want to be big and bold and in your face, while others more mellow and refreshing.  In the end, it's all about the balance for me.  I like some maltiness up front with a lingering hop taste to finish.  (if you like this effect too, you should definitely try out Troegs hopback or Dogfish 90 minute.)

Pretty Things is one of my favorite brewer's which are based out of Somerville Massachusetts, although they brew all their stuff in Westport, Massachusetts.  However, they don't own their brewery so they consider themselves a "Craft Beer Project".  They have a distinct yeast that I can almost set them apart from others in just a couple of sips.  The last word I would use to describe  any of their beers is boring.  The first time I tried their flagship product, Jack D'or, on draft it was so crisp and clean tasting.  Just awesome.

If you haven't heard of Jack D'or, you really should go pick up a bomber.  It's a saison/farmhouse ale which contains 6.5% alcohol.  It is golden in color and truly is refreshing, no matter what you are enjoying along side it.  It can be described as slightly fruity with a little bit of hops at the end.

I started following Pretty Things from the first year they were available and still get excited when I see a new product from them.  Another favorite of mine is Baby Tree which is a quadruple Belgian that is brewed with plums, that almost drinks like a porter.  Fluffy White Rabbits is their Spring ale that melds a fruitiness with lots of hops and carbonation to create a 'fluffy' Belgian style beer.

A recent obsession of mine is Stone: Enjoy By…  They first created this line in late 2012.  The first one I found myself looking for was 12.21.12 and I was not disappointed.  The big citrusy and floral hops are right on the forefront of this slightly orange beer.  Super fresh tasting; malty with the perfect amount of bitter to finish it out.  This year I've already had the 2.14.14 and 4.20.14.  The idea of this product is getting ridiculously fresh beer to a consumer in a really small window to enjoy and savor it.  The only bad part of this is they had to limit the quantities so chances are, the first time you see it on a shelf will be the last.

Beer  nowadays has so much more to it than years before.  The same way you would appreciate a fine wine - a beer is looked at the same way.
     - You look at the foam on the beer
     - You smell the nose or bouquet before you drink it
     - You observe it's color, cloudiness and viscosity
     - You wait to see how it finishes before you take another sip

Who would have ever thought to any of those things w a Budweiser product?!

Different countries produce many different styles of beer so there is never a shortage of new products to try.  Some are highly carbonated while others hardly have any.  Recently in Spencer, Massachusetts, a monk created the first Trappist Brewery in the United States. (see: http://www.spencerbrewery.com/beer/)   So people other than myself, are more than enthralled with the craft beer movement.  So get on the band wagon already.  Get out there and pick something up you've never tried before!

Need another recommendation?

  • Troegs Nugget Nectar
  • Rogue Dead Guy
  • St. Bernardus Abbey Ale
  • Anything that is served from a cask
  • Dogfish Head Palo Santo
  • Sixpoint Diesel
  • Unibroue Maudite
  • Lagunita A Little Sumpin' Sumpin'








Friday, March 21, 2014

Amaro, amaro, amaro

In Boston, I have found many people's very first introduction to amaro is a fernet branca.  I know mine was.  The first sip really throws you off.  It's bitter and herbaceous yet has some other flavors to it that you can't really seem to identify and you may not be sure if you like….until the second sip.

My first fernet experience was in the North End, when I was journeying to my car parked on Salem Street to grab a college textbook on a Sunday.  Lo and behold, a crew of 5 friends coming back from brunch whisked me into Eclano (now Vito's Tavern) and say they can cure my hangover with this magical elixir.  It was fernet on the rocks *clarification in a highball full of this stuff which I couldn't decipher.  It was so bitter and kind of possessed an anisette flavor but still bitter yet fruity yet so different from anything I had drank before.

The term Amaro signifies a couple of immediate thoughts:
     1.  It's an Italian digestif
     2.  made from macerating dozens herbs, roots, flowers, bark, fruit peels with many other ingredients and finished by aging in wooden casks
     3.  They are complex as a fine wine, with multiple bouquets, body styles and long finishes

I feel most people might have had this experience for the first time with Averna Amaro.  This is a sweeter version of the digestif that is probably the most commonly asked for.  I am not Italian, so I was never really properly introduced to this as to have the thought to naturally ask for an amaro after dinner.

After tasting through multiple types and blending them into cocktails for more featured aromatics, I understand it's value now.  Not only as a sure fire way to fight the itis you may experience after ingesting a large meal, but as an enjoyable concoction to fully satiate your senses.

Now let me tell you about some of the ones I have had the pleasure to indulge in:

Averna Amaro:
This is the Amaro I intend to compare all of the others to.  It is most available in Italian restaurants and I believe it to be the most easy drinking of the bunch….that is until you develop a taste for it.  This Sicialian spirit uses caramel to sweeten its mash of citrus peels, roots and herbs.

Montenegro Amaro:
This one is from and Bologna is lighter in body and color than Averna.  This coveted recipe entails saffron and 40 other secret botanicals that have made it the most popular (and advertised) in Italy.

Amaro Sibilla:
This ventures into the earthy notes an amaro can possess.  They macerate herbs and roots from Sibilla with honey and grain alcohol over a wood fire to develop their flavors.

Meletti Amaro:
This again has a lighter body and flavor style.  I really got many cherry notes right off the bat.  Definitely a higher sugar content, than it's predecessors with slightly more depth than the light body might make you presume.

Cynar: or Carciofo:
Is an artichoke based spirit typically a bit heavier than some of the others listed.  It has a dark bittersweet flavor, can be mixed well into a negroni instead of Compari for a richer more intense flavor.

Amaro Nonino:
This is a lighter almost spicy version of an amaro.  It is less syrupy than others can be, with a little bit of an orange aftertaste.

Luxardo Amaro:
Has a medium body with apricot and citrusy flavors and a pretty even balance of sweetness and bitterness.

All of the above are really worth checking out, if only mixed into a Manhattan or other specialty cocktail.  Some can be overwhelming on their own.  I remember tasting one with a distributor that was so thick and earthy I only wish I could have seen my face after tasting it.  I will have to look it up and tell you which one that was so you may dare to try it.  None of them are over the top strong or have a really strong liquor taste.  They are more complex combinations of secret family recipes that are all around for your tasting and comparing enjoyment.


Sunday, March 9, 2014

Compass Box - Top Notch in the realm of blended scotch

I have always loved me a good bourbon.  On the bar I have created a nice collection of blended bourbons, unique rye whiskeys and of course scotch!  However, I have not felt the scotch 'creative juices' flowing in awhile and now I am most compelled to write about a company I have just discovered.

I was first introduced to Compass Box through it's US Brand ambassador who gave me a great bit of an education -on top of a desire to drink more scotch in general.  He clued me in that this premium set of spirits only blend four different high end scotches, while a slew of their competitors use 40+ ultimately leading to their flavors getting more and more muddled.  Compass Box shows the quality of their products in the few ingredients they use while creating the urge to have another sip.

Great King St. is their signature product which is named after the street that their office is located in Edinburgh, Scotland.  A distinctive characteristic of this "Artist's Blend' is the prevalent taste of the toasted oak barrel.  While some scotch companies may reuse the same barrel over and over CB is adamant about only using that barrel once to ensure the most quality flavor is produced in the aging process.  Great King St. produces a toasty vanilla flare with a touch of maltiness and a very clean finish.  The spices that dance on your tongue are the first fill barrel flavors that only intrigue you to what the next sip will bring.

While this scotch is great on it's own, the addition of a couple ice cubes or drops of water changes the flavor profile, opening up more of the fruity grain whisky that occupies 51% of the product.  Cutting this with a dash of angostura bitters brings out more of a malty quality while the aromatics sit front and center.  Add a little lemon zest and the flavors of the Sherry wood read through.

Robin also taught me the a bit about single grain whisky opposed to single malt.  Typically grain whisky only will occupy a very small percentage in blended scotches, Great King St. uses 51% so the flavor remains neutral as it opens up on your palette revealing the malts of the Northern Highland and Speyside.

So not only are quality spirits highlighted but different first fill woods in the barrel aging process.  Blending American and French Oak with a Sherry butt (or bottom side of the barrel) create a vanilla and spice essence that must be tried.

The next product that really got me excited is their Hedonism limited release blended grain whisky.  This is a very atypical flavor where there is no malted barley present.  It is very reminiscent of an American Bourbon with a lush and almost creamy flavor with a hint of orange notes.  This uses only two to three different Scottish distilleries which creates a completely unique taste that has me dreaming about it right at this moment.  Although I'm sure this would marry nice with other flavors it must be tried straight up to really experience it the way I have.

Peat Monster is final product I want to talk a little bit about.  Being a huge of fan of mezcal, it is rare that I can find any other product that I can compare it to.  This particular blend of malt scotch whiskies give this one drink more character than a Louis C.K. show.  Three malt scotch whiskies are used from Islay, (which produces your typical peaty Lagavulin and Laphroaig) Speyside (where some of my favorites hail from like Balvenie and Macallan) and finally Mull (which personally I have never tasted a scotch from as there is only one distillery on the isle.)  This produces a slight campfire smoke essence with a some caramel notes when a couple drops of water are added to it.  Not only does the peatiness read through, but a smokey and sweet playfulness that has a long lasting finish.

I will most definitely be enhancing cocktails this week with these great new products.  They hit Nebo's shelves this week; March 10th to be exact.  I'm already thinking of what a spray of Peat Monster will do to the Smoke Over Bourbon cocktail or Great King St. served extra cold with a little ginger beer in one of our copper mugs.

Ron Burgundy is not the only scotch lover out there and this whole new world of Compass Box products are sure to please them all.

Saturday, February 8, 2014

Mandatory first post

12 years ago I started my first bar gig.  At the age of eighteen years old, I stood in a bar where a lone bartender couldn't seem to remember to finish the Guinness he had started for me.  He remembered to charge me for it, now if only among a sea of people awaiting his attendance, he could turn to me so I could make a motion to help him remember that I was thirsty and waiting patiently.  When he did approach me with my settling beer I asked him a question that would change my life.  "Are you looking to hire another bartender?"  Needless to say I started the next week.

I had filled in bar tending a couple times before at restaurants that I worked at, but never ran the show before.  I had studied menus at local diners with their never ending list of "classic cocktails" and even attempted to make some of them at parties for my friends.  For no apparent reason, I had always felt confident I could pull it off.

My first night tending bar was pretty rad.  What I didn't know in recipes I made up for in speed and friendliness.  Made a fairly painless $200 and couldn't have imagined that sole bartender doing that night without me.

Fast forward to age 21, the year I decided to make the move from Long Island to Boston.
          I move with one connection to write in the Boston Herald, one boyfriend from Quincy and his roommates and friends are the only people I know.  In one weeks time I went from no job and all free time in the world, to one job at the Boston Herald, one job bar tending job in Waltham and 3 night classes at Framingham State.

My first bar gig in Waltham isn't important other than the fact that one single customer introduced me to my future.  He advised me to leave this dump I was working in and work up the street at The Lincoln.

The Lincoln (also called the L) was a brand new martini bar up the street that seemed to be more empty than more full so I was hesitant to even consider it.  I met one of the owners of the bar, in my bar and we spoke of me starting in May when they would hopefully pick up their business and keep me happy there.  I got frustrated at the bar I was working at and ended up quitting in March.  On a Monday, I wandered into the L and told them I had full availability if they happened to need someone.  I started that following Wednesday.  They asked me to work the next night, then I had Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays from then on.

This bar wasn't super fancy, but it had some old school martinis and a fun vibe with a great live jazz band on Thursday and more music Fridays and Saturdays which was an assortment of young adults who promised they'd bring 20+ friends.

This was the bar that held my hand while I entered adulthood.  I had come in a know-it-all 22 year old and left as a 25 year old that would go on helping the same team of mangers open their next restaurant and the next after that.  Not only did I learn a certain art of making a cocktail, I learned how to run a bar and make people want to come back.

I always enjoyed making martinis.  While some bartenders dread the order I embraced the ritual and mastered the art of the perfect pour.  I liked putting different twists on classic drinks trying to create different specials.  That is the driving reason I think I'm still doing it.

Right now in my career behind the bar, I have artistic freedom.  I can use bold flavors and balance them into delicious cocktail creations.  I'm excited to try the newest, oddest craft spirits my distributors can find and I want to make you something that will awaken your senses.  Even more than that, I want you to trust me to recommend the next drink that comes after that.

I've learned my own craft from my experience behind the bar and I believe that is what has made me versatile.  Trial and error is a powerful tool.  You need to get it wrong a whole lot before you start really getting it right.  Drinking out shouldn't ever be boring.  You are peering into someone's own creations, thought process and drinking habits, whether you realize it or not.

Right now my latest obsession is the Vieux Carre.  I had a really good one at Carrie Nation and have been re-creating different riffs on them ever since.  I have always loved the flavor of Benedictine.  It's spicy and bold and it blends well into everything from Brandy (your classic B&B) to gin and tequila.

For a classic recreation use
   1 oz Bulleit Rye
   1 oz Hennessey VS
3/4 oz Carpano Antica sweet vermouth
1/2 oz Benedictine
1/4 oz lemon juice
2 dashes Angostura bitters
2 dashes Peychards bitters

Well the lemon juice isn't classic but I like a bit of acidity in it.

I tend to go through liquor phases of sorts and that is what I plan to report back to here.  When I get obsessed w something that is just what it is, so you will hear about it here.

Another obsession is IPA.  I never had Harpoon IPA before I moved to Boston and I immediately LOVED it.  Currently, I am in love with Stone Enjoy by 2.14.14.  I mean, what a cool concept to brew and distribute this ultra fresh brew within a time span of one month's time.  I had one bomber from my local packie and immediately rushed back and bought 2 more.  The night after I first drank one I found it on tap at the Kinsale and now I haven't had it in a week :(

Life goes on.  Lagunitas is a staple in my fridge, as is Dogfish 90 minute, as is anything else I am remotely intrigued by while wondering the aisle of my local liquor store.